Kidill Men’s Spring 2023

Describing something as a horror show is not usually a popular description, but for Japanese designer Hiroaki Sueyasu, it was meant to be.

After three seasons of digitally presenting his series Kidill, Sueyasu staged his first physical presentation on the official calendar, with a performance art inspired by the gory cult classics “Dr. Caligari” and “Suspiria. Caligari” and “Suspiria”. Titled “Hell House,” the figures are scattered across the floor with severed limbs that periodically stand up and sleepwalk, zombie-style, as the room fills with smoke. Other shapes hang shockingly from mannequins that are bagged with tape and tied to their mouths and hung from nooses.

The designer himself wears Korn T-shirts and is committed to the aesthetic. He’s been building the label for eight years, looking at ’80s England while tapping into punk codes for a modern twist.

“I love British fashion, it’s one of the foundations and that’s why you feel some conservative elements,” Sueyasu says. Classic tartan schoolgirl dresses and sailor collar coats with wicker hats – demure at first glance, but paired with razor blades. The floral print also had an innocent base, reinforced with a drawstring. It’s a balancing act. In collaboration with Antwerp-based graphic designer Tom Tosseyn, he created a swirling psychedelic print that works particularly well with double denim suits.

Sueyasu has fans, including Machine Gun Kelly, who know his audience. With this collection, he pushes himself to the edge and beyond a little.