Yohji Yamamoto Men’s Spring 2023

With his latest menswear collection, Yohji Yamamoto broke away from his usual all-black collection, saying his idea for this season was to “take off my old clothes and try new colors, new inspirations. He went on to say, “So it was fun to do this collection, but it was also dangerous.”

The Japanese designer showed loose-fitting suits in navy, ivory, charcoal and black. But he also made full use of textures, details and layering to create depth, even in monochromatic looks. Leather-look panels, collars and pockets added a subtle sheen to the relaxed-fitting jackets, while white embroidery such as “I hate you,” “lonely” and “s-tty life” The phrases “I hate you,” “lonely” and “s-tty life” contrasted with the black background and injected a dose of brazen humor.

A series of ivory suits in slightly crinkled fabric, with a loose fit and cuffed legs and sleeves at the ankles and wrists. Some had abstract, paint-like prints in neutral beige, while others were covered with large rectangles of various tweeds for a patchwork effect. Pleated panels at the bottom of wide-legged overalls and jackets also made several appearances.

Perhaps Yamamoto’s most adventurous looks were the loud, colorful mix of prints, sometimes splashed on velvet, that were then shaped into loose jackets and wide-legged pants. The designer invited several local celebrities to walk the runway – which he staged in the basement of his flagship store in Tokyo – but even so, the clothes made more of a splash than the wearers.

“Seriously, Japan as a country has declined,” Yamamoto said backstage after the show. “So at least we creators or artists have to do something to make people happy. I think it has become our role. So I try to create a character for people to enjoy.”

When asked if he would continue in the role next season, the designer simply replied, “I have to.”