Bach Mai Resort 2023

Emerging designer Bach Mai’s resort collection is a continuation of his fall offerings, showcasing a new expression of Cy Twombly’s “in bloom” floral paintings.

“It’s this juxtaposition of modern expression and classical romanticism. We’re continuing our exploration of color and florals,” Mai said of his continued use of vibrant colors (this time more on the “G BIV” side of the rainbow) and the introduction of the brand’s first large floral prints.

This season set a slightly sportier tone than fall, incorporating what Mai calls “a mix of ‘Bridgerton’ but for the modern country club” – for sculptural occasions dresses and more casual daywear at its best (including a sleeveless version on his now-signed sculpted back bomber). In the special occasion outfits, new seasonal embroidery – gradient-colored sheer sequins – further pushed the gradient colors for fall, while a gradient-colored lurex velvet gown hinted at a King Arthur lady on a lake. (In addition, a slight space age with James Turrell’s ideas can be seen through the clever look book background, but that’s not the point.)

The look: an elaborate combination of flowers, regency and subtle movement.

Quote: “This collection and the last one we showed in February are actually available together. The reason for that is that our first collection was just released through the press and came out in February, and then we had another collection in February, so it was our catch-up season. They were designed to be sold together, one half of each rainbow,” says Mai.

Key pieces: hand-painted floral cloud print short jumpsuits and matching aviator jackets (and leather play shorts); twill petticoats with smart, adjustable back spaghetti strap switches; sculptural flowing ball gowns in new doll lengths or high-low gowns with dropped waists; gradient sequin fringe corset dresses with silk sheer stiff gauze bodices and contrast ticking details (or shorter fringe undershirts with pointed lapels ).

The point: the designer continued his ambitious focus and goal of reviving the tradition of American fashion through a subtle, steady evolution of his sophisticated fashions.