Antonio Marras Men’s Spring 2023

If there’s one style that common sense now suggests avoiding, it’s military style – unless you name it after Antonio Maras and actually use it to send a message of hope and rebirth.

Respecting his signature handmade approach to fashion, the Sardinian designer broke out the camouflage field jacket to include floral prints and embroidery, a fashion exercise that rivals flowers in a gun.

Starting with his work on military uniforms, Marras extended the metaphor of botanical patchwork to men’s closets, from tailoring to hoodies and chunky knits, all interrupting their loose shapes with different inserts.

Not yet satisfied, the designer decided to add a mix of animal prints and an upgraded silk scarf, which he describes as “an element not part of my lexicon that I never wanted or cared for.”

After encountering a vintage scarf, the theme grew so deep that he deployed similar items and combined them on shirts, trench coats and aviator jackets. Often, the results are too bold for the poetic styles for which Marras is best known (including the baroque Versace), but it’s still fun to see his handiwork translated into shapes that channel a flamboyant street vibe.