SURREALISM, STRONG CONTRASTS AND A PSYCHEDELIC ROMANCE: THE BEST OF RESORTS 2023

After a hiatus, fashion is finally shining again on the runway. Kicking off the Resort 2023 collections was the fashion house founded by Coco Chanel. Until a few years ago, the fashion system lived on two single moments dedicated to presentations, the Spring Summer and Fall Winter collections. Today everything has changed; two collections per year for the fashion world-which is constantly and rapidly changing-is no longer enough. It is no coincidence that we hear more and more about Resort, Cruise, Pre-Spring, which are synonymous with each other, Pre-Fall, and various Couture collections. Resort collections are considered to be among the most exclusive, and once exclusively aimed at all those who, during the colder working months, traveled to warmer places.

On the occasion of the 2023 resort collection, the vision of Chanel signed Virginie Viard comes to life in the iconic Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel. With many stars present to admire the timeless glamour of the historic French fashion house, the entire show was inspired by one of the Principality’s biggest events, namely Formula 1. Chanel’s irreplaceable tweed is embellished with brilliant textures and applications, from sequins to silk to graphic patterns that made the show unique. How can you do without Chanel’s signature motorcycle helmets?

The fil rouge of Louis Vuitton’s 2023 resort collection is the sun, the California sun. In San Diego Nicolas Ghesquière presented a selection of bold looks. From boleros it seems as if a parachute should open in flight, metallic textures, unusual geometries and overlays, crystal bangs. This collection is a clear representation of oxymoron, even in the choice of location. Not surprisingly, Louis Khan’s architectural Brutalism is even more emphasized by the Pacific Ocean at sunset. In fact, the dresses/armor also present strong contrasts, both in fabrics and colors.

Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, literally transported us to a magical surreal universe with his Cosmogenie show at Castel del Monte (in Puglia, Italy). From Elizabethan England to the French spirit , passing through Italian haute couture and Hollywood. A crazy show that ends with a dress that takes us back to the constellations, embroidered with crystals on midnight blue velvet. Also important was his touch on the archive, especially in the accessories, reinvented in a modern and current key. Between progress and tradition, once again Michele’s work never ceases to amaze us.